A Surprising Defense of Unloved Styles

On Tuesday, I posted a poll about unloved styles of beer. I’m working on an article about Vienna lagers, a style I’ve found rarely sparks devotion. (That is especially true in Vienna, despite efforts to revive the native style locally.) To gauge interest, I bundled it with three other types of beer that, impressionistically, also seem broadly unloved. Below are the results—but the real story is in the stats.

I periodically post polls on Twitter, and a thousand responses is typical. This one got double that number. But even more surprisingly, it provoked fervent displays of lamentation and grief.

Look, I feel you. None of these would be on my list of unloved styles, either. The problem is that low-intensity amber/brown beers just don’t sell. Except for a few black beers, anything that isn’t pale languishes in the keg.

I have put my mind to the question of why styles become popular (and others don’t), and the answer is “people are weird.” Why do Bavarians like malt but not hops? Why do Americans like hops but not malt? Why do Düsseldorfers drink alt and Kölners kölsch? And what’s up with Belgians? These are unanswerable riddles. But for whatever reason, Americans don’t drink these styles, except for those few of you who do—and I’m sorry you’re victimized by IPA- and mass market lager-drinkers. You have them to blame.

For what it’s worth, I don’t believe Vienna lagers should have been on the list. Dunkel lagers are likely less popular. It seems that Viennas are getting a boost by the sessionable lager trend. (There was much discussion about the nature of a true Vienna lager, and while I have much to say about that, you’ll have to wait for my article in Craft Beer and Brewing.)

As for those of you singing odes to brown ales and alts, take heart. I was surprised to see such a strong surge of love for these styles. Perhaps there’s hope for them yet.

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* Based on discussions I’ve had with drinkers and servers, but especially brewers—those who make these styles but have a hard time finding an audience.